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  • administrators

    I think what daz figures do is stack the uv maps on top of each other that's why you see them together, zbrush doesn't like that at all, so you won't be able to use zbrush to create displacements maps for an entire body… you'll have to use a different program, i think it preserves them though and you can export to something like uv mapper or 3d coat and isolate the maps there

    what you can do is create individual maps for isolated body parts, say you wanted to create a displacement map for the head... only export the head, then do your changes export the displacement map it will work correctly in zbrush, because it will only affect one uv map, the head uv map in this case



  • Can you guys tell how to exactly create displacement maps in Zbrush? I imported V3 head, createted some holes and stuff like that, then push button "create displacement map" and all I got is this mess:


  • administrators

    well if you can control the zdepth than that's good… and I like the subject you chose to focus on ... that's where she gets her upper body strength from :D



  • Thanks Dom :)

    BTW, I put this together a little bit ago when asked the same question http://artguyjoe.deviantart.com/art/Depth-of-Field-Tutorial-313246779



  • @'miro':

    but isn't the zdepth set to always the same focus or can you change it something in middle for example?

    Its good question, but now I can't check it because every time (but only today, why?!) I import PSD from Poser, Photoshop will crash.

    http://dropcanvas.com/m5hct/2
    Here is two PSD files. One have large focus distance (behind cylinder), and one have focus distance near box. Look at zdepth layer and tell us.

    edit:
    Oh, jbtrimar already said that zdepth mask depents on your focus distance setting of used camera. Nice and quickly.



  • For Poser, using z Depth, it renders based off of the Focus Distance. I use this ALL the time. When rendering, you just make sure it is checked off, as listed above, and that you DO NOT click on the DOF box in render settings. Also, make sure you display the Focus Guide.


  • administrators

    but isn't the zdepth set to always the same focus or can you change it something in middle for example?

    you can't do high details via zbrush beyond what the mesh is capable of… because yes you can't sub-divide, morphs are based on the fact that the topology remains consistant

    what you can do however is sub divide a few times, create fine detail and then create a bump, displacement or normal map and use those on top of the current topology to create finer details, see if you can find some tutorials on how these are created



  • Back to dof. - with Poser 2012 you can simply generate depth mask with single click. Go to renders settings and:
    . Now render your image and save and PSD file. When you open your new PSD file you will have new layed with depth mask.
    Quick question about render settings - best max bucked size settings for 2GB RAM?

    And more complex stuff.
    Like you said, miro, MorphTool in Poser is very clumsy, but its work! So, whats with Zbrush then? I watched some YT tutorial about making custom morphs and everything works beside low poly representation of actuall hi poly model (for this example: head). We can't divide geometry in Zbrush because Poser won't import it, so how can I make some fine details for head when I only see low poly head?


  • administrators

    4 thins you can do:

    1. use magnets, this usually only works for rough changes, like adding a bulge or moving hair, etc… just click on the figure to add a magnet to and 'add mangnet', move and resize the base and use the magnet to influence what direction you want the change
    2. use something like MorCloth by Dimension 3d, this lets insert the exact same morphs of the figure into the clothing, so if you've got 'HugeBreast' dialed to 10 for example :D and but you don't have that morph in the clothing, use morcloth to transfer the morph to the clothing and there you go now you can just dial it in, I use this a lot
    3. use an external program like zbrush, this is more advanced, but gets you 100% what you want, as long as you can sculpt :) ... but there's a learning curve involved, I use this a lot as well
    4. use Poser's built in morph tool, works in the same way as Zbrush but natively Poser (see MorphTool) it's very clumsy though, works well for rough changes, finer details are hit and miss, I usually try this first, then morcloth then zbrush


  • DOF python script works great, calculating distance is perfect I think, but there is something wrong. Like I said before - camera focus is inversed, but I can't change that, due to perspective an focal camera setting I think. With "normal" (default) camera settings FireFly DoF works great. Dunno. I give up.

    And believe me - you have far, far more control over DoF effect via mask and layers in Photoshop and is quicker.

    Next thing - can somebody explain me how magnets works, and how to use it?
    For example - I have misty breast morphs injected to V4, created some fine tits and I wanna give her t-shirt. But what is that? I see her tits over a t-shit. Tuning t-shirt with dials give me, at last, bad result. So magnets can help here?
    I know that is basic poser stuff, but hey, is never too late to learn.


  • administrators

    I prefer to use the built in render's dof effect, cause it's more accurate and there's a lot more control.

    But this technique looks great, should come in handy for Poser renders or where the render's DOF feature is limited. Nice explanation!
    So that set DOF python script doesn't work, that you have in your first screenshot? Isn't that what you would use?



  • Making DoF effect with two images is quite simply.
    Make your scene, then render it, save image, but don't close. Import render to Photoshop and go back to Poser (other programs, like VUE, can render depth cue I think) and make foreground color to white, and background color to black, document style -> silhouette and turn on depth cue preview. Now render image with preview engine or Render -> Antialias Document.

    Save image and import it to Photoshop. Now copy entire image (CTRL + A, CRTL + C) and go back to your opened render. Go to Channels Tab (you will see 3 channels by default, if you're in RGB mode of course, CMYK will be 4, but is not important), make new channel, and paste your depth cue image into new channel (ctrl + V). If selection will show up (you know, those moving ants) press CTRL + D destroy selection. Click RGB on top of channels window.

    Go back to your layers tab, and go to Filter -> Blur -> Lens Blur and select Alpha 1 as a Depth Map source.

    Tune everything to your taste and press ok. Thats all.
    Here is ultra ugly example:

    BUT Depth map from Poser is not so perfect, need some adjust via Curvels and / or Levels in Photoshop. Why? Because is almost impossible to get actual white color (near camera) from Poser Depth Map.

    There is also quite good Photoshop plugin called DOF PRO with is easy to use, can fine tune depth map and stuff like that.

    And about DoF via FireFly engine - I know! I showed it on first image. But my problem is adjusting camera focus distance, because I wanna see hand clear as mountain water and everything blurry, not inverse. I simply don't know how. And yes, FF DoF its still slow as hell, but I'm on Pentium 4 CPU, so…


  • administrators

    @'elDominiko':

    Looks quite nice. And using V4 wet textures, as a base texture for modding give quite nice result. Still no perfect, but its not important I think.

    yes I use this for a sweaty look

    @'elDominiko':

    Now I have another problem - depths of field. I always can use photoshop* for that, but like I said before, I wanna try some new thinks in poser. I wanna see blur, out of focus, on her chest and face, not hand, but trying everything (including python script for calculating focus distance) and still hand are blurry. Why? This is something with perspective and focal settings?

    • but I have problem with creating depth mask.

      This hand is front of camera, so should be black, but is gray and this give little problems. Levels and curves may fix it but is far from perfect. I don't wanna waste time for selections, masking, another selections, and stuff like that. Whats wrong? This perspective setting (of camera) ruining everything?

    And again - sorry for poor English.

    Tried this, but I never got this technique to work.

    Poser does actually have depth of field built in. You can set the focal length and then use the Depth of Field check box in your render settings. It used to be slow, but maybe it's gotten better of late?

    But if you're doing still poser renders Photoshop is just faster and easier.



  • Thanks. I found quite simple way to make "wet looks". Google is best friend, indeed ;-)

    Looks quite nice. And using V4 wet textures, as a base texture for modding give quite nice result. Still no perfect, but its not important I think.

    !

    Now I have another problem - depths of field. I always can use photoshop* for that, but like I said before, I wanna try some new thinks in poser. I wanna see blur, out of focus, on her chest and face, not hand, but trying everything (including python script for calculating focus distance) and still hand are blurry. Why? This is something with perspective and focal settings?

    • but I have problem with creating depth mask.

      This hand is front of camera, so should be black, but is gray and this give little problems. Levels and curves may fix it but is far from perfect. I don't wanna waste time for selections, masking, another selections, and stuff like that. Whats wrong? This perspective setting (of camera) ruining everything?

    And again - sorry for poor English.


  • administrators

    quite simple actually, not really a wet look but shiny

    you go to the material room, click on the body part, go to advanced, create a new node lighting > specular I believe, select ansiotropic for example and then connect that node to the alternate specular node of the posersurface

    try play with the settings and also try some of the other specular nodes like phong, glossy, etc

    if you want a proper sweaty/ wet look you'll need something a little more complex, but try that first



  • I think is good place to ask.
    Can you guys tell me how to make skin wet (shader I think)? I'm using Poser 7. I'm always made everything in Photoshop, but I wanna try something new.



  • Thea can be very very fast depending on scene complexity etc of course. The preview window can work in all the modes that you can use for final render output and does not leave out half of the features while creating the render in this window. Its just using all the features you would have in the final output and you can choose between the two unbiased and the one biased mode if you like to.

    I dont have a clear understanding of how it works under the hood so I cannot really say why it is that fast but it is really fast actually.

    It has SSS aswell yes but the settings to me are a bit confusing. You can get some nice looking results by just using transparency settings coupled by a slightly darker layer of diffuse material shining through it though. Doesnt matter as much if its not 100 physically accurate as long as it looks good.

    Material setup has a diagram based shader system where you basically have a piece of paper where you can align he different layers next to each other and mix them into each other or ontop and have them overlay.
    It looks a bit different but it still has the same principles of other systems, only that to me, it seemed to be quicker to work with than say a node based system. Also the displacement in Thea is very well done compared to what I have seen in other renders. It features micro displacement and the results look fantastic and render relatively quick aswell. You can basically take a plane with a texture pattern and turn it into a convincing looking rug with just a decent displacement map slapped into the shader.

    Just have a look for yourself. Theres a trial version that has all the features only no option to save renders and watermark plus 800x600 max resolution as far as I remember.


  • administrators

    @'hzr':

    The results in Thea usually look very very nice and working inside it is a real treat, because unlike octane where you can of course see some light preview when you change the sunlight position etc, in TheaRender you can really do light shaping nicely because you can move around objects while the scene actively renders (in full quality btw, so you can actually use the output from the preview window as a render output without any decrease in quality).

    not sure I understood this, with TheaRender you can preview in real time which is also the final render?
    Which I suppose makes sense if you say that this render only took a few minutes. That's really odd though because afaik Octane takes a lot longer than that and shouldn't it be a lot faster than a CPU renderer?
    How can Thea be that fast on just CPUs, hmm. Does TheaRender have SSS? And how is the material setup better to say Octane?



  • I would recommend using either TheaRender or Octane if you think about using an external renderer. They both use the same principle as an unbiased renderer but they work a little different from each other. While Octane is blazing fast as a gpu render engine (nvidia gfx cards only btw) TheaRender is a cpu based engine but it is still very very fast in comparison to others of its kind and has some really nice additional features that those others lack. And most importantly, they are both really cheap compared to the others around, while still producing great quality.

    First off, TheaRender does allow you to add more than one mesh into one render scene. And you can also translate, rotate, scale just like you could in the normal posing tools or complete 3d packages like 3dsmax and cinema4d. Then you can mix and match textures and work with a very flexible shader system that is very easy to learn and really fast flowing aswell. You got the option to either use unbiased renderering or traditional biased rendering using a final gather method with all the bells and whistles that renderers like mentalray, vray etc have.

    The results in Thea usually look very very nice and working inside it is a real treat, because unlike octane where you can of course see some light preview when you change the sunlight position etc, in TheaRender you can really do light shaping nicely because you can move around objects while the scene actively renders (in full quality btw, so you can actually use the output from the preview window as a render output without any decrease in quality).

    In the end it comes down to price I would say. TheaRender is 299 I think and Octane 99 euros. But keep in mind that octane is VERY gpu ram hungry and you should either already have a card with at least 1.5-2gb memory and at least being a gtx460 (which is really not great, trust me, I got one;)), or you will have to add another 200ish euro for a new gfx card into the price.

    My personal favourite of the two would be TheaRender as of right now since you can always decide if you go for full unbiased quality or rather do a quicker biased render that doesnt neccessarily mean that it will look worse. The only real drawback with Thea to me was that even though you can move around objects etc, it was not as precise as working in cinema4d, otherwise I am pretty sure that I would still use TheaRender. But this will change again once they release that cinema4d plugin, YAY ;)

    Here an example render I just slapped together in TheaRender.

    I just used basic materials there, no SSS yet and 3 emitters for the light. But as you can see it already gives quite a nice looking result. Reflections on the skin especially are looking quite well with just the basic specular texture out of the daz texture pack and not really any tweaks to it. Rendered in around 4 minutes which is quite fast for a closeup shot with eyes etc.

    Here another quick job.

    This time I added a translucency map into the skin to give that typical "red ears" look when being lit by a strong light from behind. You might notice how the overall look of the skin appears to be softer with this now. Its no true sss there and not using bumpmaps but to me it already looks quite nice for skin.


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